Viking Cruise 2014 - Day 17

Batsto to Oslo

Saturday 20th June 2014

Distance travelled  13.6nm

Wind southerly F1-3 Overcast visibility

the fleet had become split with the remainder of the fleet at Son some 10nm south of Drobak. they were waiting for a spare part for the Gig Hippo. They finally left that morning after it's promised arrival. As we were the leading group and were on schedule to meet with Chris Solheim-Allan our local Drascombe representative. We left Batsto at about 12:00 hours and in the gentle breeze we sailed northwards the Steileine islands which were our planned meeting point. We met with Chris and his family and he then escorted us into Oslo and we berthed at the Royal Norwegian Yacht Club.

Windroos

Chris Solhein_Allan's Coaster with monster Norwegian flag.

Viking Museum in Oslo 

Sculpture Park in Vigeland Park, Oslo

Norwegian Stave Church in Folk Museum 

Viking Cruise 2014 - Day 16

Sandspollen to Batsto

Friday 19th June 2014

Distance travelled 6.4 nm

We were now in reach of Oslo and a number of our fleet had a schedule to keep. They were restrained by commitments to return to work, flight and ferry bookings. So early in the morning Tra Bhui the open Gig and Damson the Drifter departed for Oslo. That left 3 boats remaining for a relaxing day. We decided to visit the nearby fortified island of Oscarborg which was situated at Drobaek in the middle of the Oslo fjord. It's position defended the fjord and the approaches to Oslo. We sailed the short distance and moored in the small marina on the island. The holiday season had not yet started with the Norwegian  schools in their final weeks of term. Throughout the trip marinas had been empty and this tourist attraction proved the point with little or no visitors evident. We paid for our marina space at the vending machine but otherwise the museum and sights were free.

Oscarborg was built by King Oscar  in the 1800's to defend Norway from believed invasion from Denmark. But the fort gained notoriety in 1940 when it defended Oslo for a vital few days to allow the Norwegian Royal family and government to escape to the United Kingdom. This allowed them to form a government in exile during the duration of the war.  The ancient guns on the island manage to set fire to a German battleship Blucher as it approached Oslo up the fjord. The fire in the aircraft hanger caused the ship to sink in the fjord where it remains to this day still leaking fuel oil.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Dr%C3%B8bak_Sound

Summer Cottage in Sandspollen fjord

Armstrong muzzle loading cannons

View south down Oslo fjord

German made breach loading 28cm guns used in 1940 to sink the German battleship Blucher.

View to the west looking towards Sandspollen.

Moksha in Oscarsborg Marina

Later in the afternoon we decided to head north up Oslo fjord keeping to the west side and look for a small harbour at Batsto. This was not recognised as a harbour that would accept visitors but we thought we would give it a chance. I was keen to find this harbour as it was close to a campsite where my wife was staying and I had not seen her since we had left Denmark.

We arrived and found vacant spaces in the harbour and decided that we would plead ignorance if the owners returned.

Rain shower.

Batsto harbour

Traditional fishing boat. Single cylinder puffer engine.

Hansens Brugge

 The locals were very friendly and all were curious as to our voyage. We were invited into Hansesns Brugge (harbour) which was a small harbour where the owner kept fishing boats which he hired out. He also had an area set aside as a bar and BBQ for private parties. He entertained us to free coffee and a visit to his small museum  The owner Paul Hansen told us that Batsto translated into english as boat slip. His family had been living in the village for generations and had been engaged in the export of ice to England.in years past.

Viking Cruise 2014 - Day 15

Engalvisk Bay to Sandspollen

Thursday 18th June 2014

Wind NW Force 2 Visibility Good, Sunny

Distance travelled 29.8 nm

Left Engalvisk Bay at about 10:00 hours and headed north taking the inside passage behind the Sletter islands. The wind died away completely and it became apparent watching buoys that we were sailing into about a 2 knot southbound tide. 

Sletter islands

Ulkekrabben

Off Ulkekrabben I suddenly spotted a dolphin. He showed him self a couple of times but showed no interest in the boat. He was spotted by several other crews. The fleet was becoming very strung out and I was sailing practically alone. The weather was fine, hot and sunny. The weather  must have been fine as the Norwegian Air Force were flying their F16 fighters in the clear blue skies.  I motored slowly on tickover towards the island of Jeloya which was about 5 nm away. It was becoming apparent that we were entering the the outer approaches of Oslo Fjord. There was a car ferry from Moss to the western side of the fjord. It was a busy and frequent service with at least four ferries visible shuttling backwards and forwards across the fjord.

I could see that wind conditions were going to change with approaching catspaws on the surface of the sea indicating an approaching southerly wind. This was a sea breeze being created by the heating up of the land over the northern land mass of Norway.. Soon we were sailing along at a decent speed and the sea state was being stirred up by the wind. I kept Jeloya to my starboard and I had to take avoiding action when I passed through the track of the ferries who seemed to uninterested in giving way to small sailing craft.
I passed inshore of an outlying island of Jeloya called Ostre Sullholmbaen. The fjord was becoming busier with shipping with larger ferries from Color line and Stena. I was now sailing with Jack O'Keefe in Tyboat up the western side of Jeloya. We took a  small passage on the northern tip of the island with the outlying island of BevØya. The passage was about 250 feet wide.
Turned to the north with the southerly wind and goose winged the sails and using a pole to keep the foresail stable. The wind strengthened and the sea state became more lumpy. We were now in Oslo fjord proper and the landscape had changed with the sides of the fjord becoming steeper and higher. They were heavily wooded with houses quite densely covering the hill sides. The wind was now propelling me along at 5 to 6 knots. I was concerned about broaching and so I reduced sail by furling the jib a little bit. As a result I slowed down and I lost site of the other boats in the fleet.

Approached the area of Drøbak where the fjord narrows with the island Of Oscarsborg in the middle and a branch going of to port around the island of Hăøya. The island of Oscarsborg is a heavily fortified island with port channel made shallow with a defensive underwater barrier. Entry is through a narrow marked channel. I got instructions by radio from Jack as to how to enter the channel. I made the passage easily and I found a fjord to the port and at the far end was a wooden jetty provided with picnic tables, Barbecue pits, rubbish disposal and earth closet toilets. All these facilities were provided free of charge presumably by the local Kommune.  It was a wonderful quiet spot with lots of wildlife including deer in the woodland.
Another fine days sailing with minimal use of the motor and the biggest daily mileage of the trip.

Viking Cruise 2014 - Day 14

Syd-Koster to Engalvisk Bay, Norway

Wednesday 17th June 2014

Wind WSW Force 2 Good visibility, Cloudy

Distance travelled  25.7nm

Awoke to a beautiful morning in this remote anchorage. The sea water was so clear that I could see the anchor on the sandy bottom two or three metres below. I had a leisurely breakfast watching the bird life and the locals taking a dip in the sea.

Set off at 11:00 hours for Engalvisk Bay in the still air and so motored through the narrow and shallow channel. The centreplate made some noisy crashes on the rock strewn seabed but the sounder quickly showed that the depth had increased again. I was anxious not to run aground on these remote rocky outcrops. as soon as we reached open water I was able to set full sail and in the WSW wind was able to attain a gentle speed of 2.5knots. The fleet spread out across the sea.

At 13:00 we crossed the border into Norwegian waters and I was a little surprised to find the border was marked by a series of yellow marker buoys. The wind freshened and the boat became a little uncomfortable in the swell.

We sailed past the lighthouse at Struten and turned to our starboard to close with the coast. As we sailed past Struten it immediately became apparent that the geology had changed. The rock had become more grey colour and the rocks were more jagged. This was in contrast to the Swedish smooth pink granite rocks that we had been used to.

We made for the inshore channel between Rauer and the mainland where we found the port of Engalvisk Bay. Englishman's Bay. I arrived at 19:00 hours one of the last to arrive and moored bows to the stone wall. There were some noticeable differences in that it felt more relaxed and there were a greater number of old boats in excellent condition. Swedish boats tended to be modern and  large. Wherever we went we attracted attention as small boat sailors. Although nobody seemed to express any interest in the distance we had travelled. 

We celebrated that evening on the harbour wall with beer and wine in reaching our destination and country and a realisation that cruise was near it's end.